Pakistan is a land of
many splendours. The scenery changes northward
from coastal beaches, lagoons and mangrove
swamps in the south to sandy deserts, desolate
plateaus, fertile plains, dissected upland in
the middle and high mountains with beautiful
valleys, snow-covered peaks and eternal glaciers
in the north.
The variety
of landscape divides Pakistan into six major
regions:
the North High Mountainous
Region, the Western Low Mountainous
Region, the Balochistan Plateau, the
Potohar Uplands, the Punjab and the
Sindh Plains.
High Mountain Region: Stretching in the
North, from east to west, are a series of high
mountain ranges which separate Pakistan from
China, Russia and Afghanistan. They include the
Himalayas, the Karakoram and the Hindukush. The
Himalayas spread in the north-east and the
Karakoram rises on the north-west of the
Himalayas and extends eastward up to Gilgit. The
Hindu Kush mountains lie to the north-west of
the Karakoram, but extend eastward into
Afghanistan. With the assemblage of 35 giant
peaks over 24,000 ft. high (7,315m), the region
is the climbers' paradise. Many summits are even
higher than 26,000 ft.(7,925 m) and the highest
K-2(Mt.Godwin Austin) is exceeded only by
Mt.Everest. Inhospitable and technically more
difficult to climb than even Everest, they have
taken the biggest toll of human lives in the
annals of mountaineering.
The passes are rarely lower than the
summit of Mt. Blanc and several are over 18,000
ft. (5,485 m). The Karakoram Highway, that
passes through the mountains, is the highest
trade route in the world. Besides, the region
abounds in vast glaciers, large lakes and green
valleys which have combined at places to produce
holiday resorts such as Gilgit, Hunza and Yasin
in the west and the valleys of Chitral, Dir,
Kaghan and Swat drained by rivers Chitral,
Pankkora, Kunhar and Swat respectively in the
east. Dotted profusely with scenic spots having
numerous streams and rivulets, thick forests of
pine and junipers and a vast variety of fauna
and flora, the Chitral, Kaghan and Swat valleys
have particularly earned the reputation of being
the most enchanting tourist resorts of
Pakistan.
South of the high mountains, the ranges lose
their height gradually and settle down finally
in the Margalla hills (2,000-3,000 ft.) in the
vicinity of Islamabad, the Capital of Pakistan,
and Swat and Chitral hills, north of river
Kabul. Although the climate of the region is
extremely diverse, according to aspect and
elevation, yet as a whole it remains under the
grip of severe cold from November to April. May,
June and July are pleasant months. The southeren
slopes receive heavy rainfall and consequently
are covered with forest of deodar, pine, poplar
and willow trees. The more northerly ranges and
north-facing slopes receive practically no rains
and are, therefore, without trees.
There is a considerable trans-humane from the
mountains to the plains in winter and from
plains to the mountains in summer. The permanent
settlers grow corn, maize, barely, wheat and
rice on the terraced fields and also raise
orchards of apples, apricots, peaches and
grapes. Peaks and Glaciers Eric Shipton, a great
mountainer who perished in Pakistan's Northern
Areas, wrote in his account. To describe this
region is to indulge in superlatives, for
everywhere you look are the highest, the longest
and the largest mountains, glaciers and rivers
in the world.
Making some allowance for Shipton's tendency
towards slight exaggeration, born out of awe and
fascination, the fact remains that Pakistan
boasts of the largest share of the highest
mountain peaks in the world. Its own highest
peak, the famed and dreaded K-2, is the second
highest in the world, being just some `ropes'
short of the Everest in Nepal. With due respect
to the Everest, K-2 is regarded as far more
firmidable to climb than its relatively facile
superior. Three of the mightiest mountain
systems- the Hindukush, the Karakorams and the
Himalayas- adorn the forehead of Pakistan. The
second highest peak of Himalayas, as also of
Pakistan, is the Nanga Parbat which literally
means the "Naked Mountain".
Pakistan has seven of the 16 tallest peaks in
Asia. The statistics are simply baffling: 40 of
the world's 50 highest mountains are in
Pakistan; in Baltistan over 45 peaks touch or
cross the 20,000 foot mark; in Gilgit within a
radius of 65 miles, there are over two dizens
peaks ranging in height between 18,000 to 26,000
feet.
The awe-inspiring beauty provided inspiration
to a Pakistani writer to observe lyrically, "in
Pakistan's lofty mountain regions, reaching for
the sky doesn't seem too ambitious". Pakistan's
Eight Thousanders: There are a total of 14 main
peaks soaring above 8000 metres in the world.
Out of these, 8 are located in Nepal, 5 in
Pakistan and 1 in China. It has become
prestigious to make these peaks as targets by
mountaineers every year. In fact, successful
climb over these peaks is considered an enviable
measure of their attainment. By far, the largest
number of mountaineering expeditions visiting
Pakistan has been coming from Japan.
K-2 (8611m) It is the second highest mountain
the world. It was first attempted by Martin
Conway's expedition in 1902 which was composed
of British, Austrian and Swiss climbers. Ashraf
Aman was the first Pakistani climber to climb on
top of K-2 with five other climbers of the
Jap-Pak expedition in 1977, with Ichire
Yoshizawa as its leader and Isao Shinkai as the
technical leader.
Nanga Parbat (8125m) It is also known as the
killer mountain. It claimed the life of AF
Mummery, leader of an expedition and two porters
in 1895. Since then Nanga Parbat has cost scores
of lives, though quite a few have successfully
scaled it. Harmann Buhl was the first to set
foot on this formidable peak in 1953. In spite
of its bloody past record, Nanga Parbat is still
the most sought after target. Its dangerous
challenge seems to add spurs to the
determination of climbers.
Hidden Peak (8068m) This peak was first
attempted in 1892 by Martin Conway's expedition
who gave it this name because it was hidden by
the neighbouring peaks of Baltoro glacier. The
peak was first conquered in 1958 by an American
expedition. Nick clinch was the leader. The
climbing leaders Peter Schoening and Kanfuran
were the two summiters.
Broad Peak (8047m) This peak was also named
by Martin Conway and was first attempted by a
German expedition headed by Karl Herligk offer
in 1954. The peak was climbed in 1957 when the
entire team of four climbers with Marcus Schmuck
scaled it.
In the far-north of Pakistan are valleys
which are closed within the silent, brooding
forts of these mountains and are almsot as high
as the mountains themselves. Here dwell, from
times immemorial, various tribes differing in
race and culture. If one tribe has Mongol
features, its neighbour is obviously Aryan.
Separated by insurmountable obstacles, these
tribes very often live a totally land-locked
existence blissfully unaware of the world
beyond. But, a traveller is simply wonderstruck
by one common element - Islam.
Every-where you hear the familiar
Assalam-o-Alaikum, the universal Muslim greeting
and welcome. and no matter how small or poor the
inhibtation, the same muezzin's call to prayer
"Allah-u-Akbar rings in the thin mountain air,
issuing from the minarets of mosques hidden in
the inaccessible fold of these ranges pulsates
an infinite variety of life; animals reptiles,
birds, insects and plants. There is, of course,
the yak which is an enormous but docile beast,
at once the beast of burden and food. It is
notable in the wildlife of these regions, but,
its hunting is strictly restricted and in many
areas totally forbidden by law.
Glaciers:
Pakistan has more glaciers than any other
land outside the North and South Poles.
Pakistan's glacial area covers some 13,680 sq.km
which represents an average of 13 per cent of
mountain regions of the upper Indus Basin.
Pakistan's glaciers can rightly claim to possess
the greatest mass and collection of glaciated
space on the face of earth. In fact, in the lap
of the Karakoram of Pakistan alone there are
glaciers whose total length would add up to
abvoe 6,160 sq. km. To put it more precisely, as
high as 37 per cent of the Karakoram area is
under its glaciers against Himalayas' 17 per
cent and European Alps' 22 per cent. The
Karakorams have one more claim to proclaim; its
souther flank (east and west of the enormous
Biafo glacier) has a concentration of glaciers
which works out to 59 per cent of its
area.
There is a historical reason for the fact
that we, and the world outside, are better
acquainted with glaciers in the Nanga Parbat
region. It is through this region, hazardous
though it is, that man has trudged to and fro
since the beginning of his civilized history of
movement and migration. The Siachin glacier is
75 kms. The Hispar (53 kms) joins the Biafo at
the Hispar La (5154.16 metres (16,910 ft) to
form an ice corridor 116.87 kms (72 miles) long.
The Batura, too is 58 kms in length. But, the
most outstanding of these rivers of ice is the
62 kms Baltoro. This mighty glacier fed by some
30 tributaries constitues a surface of 1291.39
sq. kms. Western Low Mountains Region.
These western low mountains spread from the
Swat and Chitral hills in a north-south
direction (along which alexander the Great led
his army in 327 B.C) and cover a large portion
of the North-West Frontier Province. North of
the river Kabul their altitude ranges from 5,000
to 6,000 ft. in Mohamand and Malakand hills. The
aspect of these hills is exceedingly dreary and
the eye is everywhere met by the dry rivers
between long rows of rocky hills and crags,
scantily covered with coarse grass, scrub wood
and dwarf palm. South of the river Kabul spreads
the Koh-e-Sofed Range with a general height of
10,000 ft. Its highest peak, Skaram, being
15,620 ft. South of Koh-e-Sofed are the Kohat
and Waziristan hills (5,000 ft) which are
traversed by the Kurram and Tochi rivers, and
are bounded on south by Gomal River.
The whole area is a tangle of arid hills
composed of limestone and sandstone. South of
the Gomal River, the Sulaiman Mountains run for
a distance of about 483 kilomaters in a
north-south direction, Takht-e-Sulaiman (11,295
ft.) being its highest peak. At the southern end
lie the low Marri and Bugti hills. The area
shows an extraordinary landscape of innumerable
scarps, small plateaus and steep craggy
out-crops with terraced slopes and patches of
alluvial basins which afford little
cultivation.
Kirthar Range South of the Sulaiman Mountains
is the Kirthar Range which forms a boundary
between the Sindh plain and the Balochistan
plateau. It consists of a series of ascending
ridges running generally north to south with
broad flat valleys in-between. The highgest peak
named Kutte ji Kabar (dog's grace is 6,878 ft.
above sea level. Bleak, rugged and barren as
these hills are, they afford some pasturage for
flocks of sheep and goats. The valleys are green
with grass and admit cultivation up to a highest
of 4,000 ft. Historical Passes The western
mountains have a number of passes, which are of
special geographical and historical interest.
For centuries, they have been watching numerous
kings, generals and preachers passing through
them and the events that followed brought about
momentous changes in the annals of
mankind.
Climate
Although the country is in the monsoon
region, it is arid, except for the southern
slopes of the Himalayas and the sub-Mountainous
tract which have a rainfall from 76 to 127 cm.
Balochistan is the driest part of the country
with an average rainfall of 21 cm. On the
southern ranges of the Himalayas, 127 cm. of
precipitation takes place, while under the lee
of these mountains (Gilgit and Baltistan)
rainfall is hardly 16 cm. Rainfall also occurs
from western cyclonic distrubances originating
in the Mediterranean.
It is appreciable in the western mountains
and the immediate forelying area; hre the
rainfall average ranges from 27 to 76 cm. The
contribution of these western distrurbances to
rainfall over the plains is about 4 cm. A large
part of the precipitation in the northern
mountain system is in the form of snow which
feeds the rivers. The all-pervasive aridity over
most of Pakistan, the predominant influence on
the life and habitat of the people, coupled with
the climatic rhythm, characteristic of a monsoon
climate, are conducive to homogeneity of the
land.
Seasons The four well-marked seasons
in Pakistan are:-
(i) Cold season (December to March).
(ii) Hot season (April to June).
(iii) Monsoon season (July to
September). (iv) Post-Monsoon season
(October and November).
The cold season sets in by the middle of
December. This period is characterised by fine
weather, bracing air-low humidity and large
diurnal range of temperature. Winter
distrubances in this season accordingly cause
fairly widespread rain. Average mimimum and
maximum temperatures are 4 oC and 18 oC, though
on occasions the mercury falls well below
freezing point. The winter sun is glorious. The
hot season is usually dry. Relative humidity in
May and June varies from 50 per cent in the
morning to 25 per cent or less in the afternoon.
The temperature soars to 40 oC and beyond. The
highest recorded temperature at Jaccobabad in
June is 53 oC. While the interior is blazing
hot, the temperature along the sea coast ranges
between 25 oC to 35 oC, but the humidity
persists around 70 to 80 per cent.
The south-west monsoon reaches Pakistan
towards the beginning of July and establishes
itself by the middle of the month. The strength
of the monsoon current increases form June to
July; it then remains steady, and starts
retreating towards the end of August, though
occasionally, it continues to be active even in
September when some of the highest floods of the
Indus Basin have been recorded. From the middle
of September to the middle of November is the
transitory period which may be called the
post-monsoon season.
In October, the maximum temperature is of the
order of 34 oC to 37 oC all over Pakistan, while
the nights are fairly cool with the minimum
temperature around 16 oC. In the month of
November, both the maximum and the mimimum
temperatures fall by about 6 oC and the weather
becomes pleasant. October and November are by
far the driest months all over the plains of
Pakistan.
People and Population
The population of the country as on 1st
January, 1994, is estimated at about 124.45
million with its male/female ratio of
52.50:47.50 per cent. The current growth rate of
3.0 per cent is the highest among nine most
populous countries of the world. The population
is expected to reach 150 million by the year
2000. Density per square kilometre is 156
persons. Literacy rate is estimated to be 36.8
per cent. Of the four provinces, with 25.8 per
cent of land area of the country, Punjab has
56.5 per cent of the total population; Sindh,
with 17.7 per cent of land area, has 22.6 per
cent: NWFP, (including FATA) with 12.8 per cent
of land area, has 15.7 per cent; Balochistan,
with 43.6 per cent of land area, has 5.1 per
cent. Thus, Punjab is the most densely (240
persons per sq km) populated province, follwed
by Sindh and NWFP. Balochistan is the least
populated province, with 19 persons per square
kilomatre. The overall population density of the
country is 156 persons per square kilometre as
estimated in 1994. Sindh is the urbainised
province with 43 per cent of the people living
in urban areas including Karachi City. The urban
population of Punjab is 28 per cent followed by
NWFP, 21 per cent, and Balochistan 16 per cent.
About 67 per cent of the total urban population
of the country lives in 28 cities with
population of 100,000 and above, while 57 per
cent of the total urban population lives in 12
cities with population lives in 12 cities with
population of 200,000 and above. Age Composition
According to the Labour Force Survey, 1990-91,
46.93 of the population is under 15 years of
age; 49.66 per cent is between the age groups of
15 and 64 years, while 3.41 per cent comprises
persons 65 years old and above. |
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